Undulating roads rise and fall like waves of tarmac. As you climb, the excitement builds. Then, you reach the crest, and another remarkable vista slaps you in the face with its beauty. It’s a rollercoaster ride along the winding roads of the Wild Atlantic Way.
Then, waves of another kind as the verdant hills tumble down into the dark water that laps deserted stretches of sand. Whitecaps dance in the distance, adding to the drama. It’s like a painting – a work of art by Mother Nature. This is Donegal, and it is as pretty as a picture.
With some of the highest sea cliffs in Europe, 1,235km of coastline with soft sand beaches and Ireland’s largest Gaeltacht area where the traditions of old remain strong, Donegal gives you starkly stunning scenery and a glimpse into Ireland of yore. Its empty roads and beaches beckon those with a spirit of adventure and desire to get away from it all – you’ll meet more sheep on your trip than tourists.
So, pack your hiking boots and flip flops, raincoat and swimsuit and brush up on your modh coinníollach because it’s time to embrace Donegal with its cliffs, coast, crafts and céilí.
Located at the mouth of Donegal Bay with the Blue Stack Mountains as a backdrop, Donegal town is compact and walkable. It has plenty of places to eat, drink, and sleep, making it an excellent base for exploring the county.
Wander around the town and enjoy the warm welcome wherever you go. Visit the Abbey Ruins and the Donegal Railway Heritage Centre or get the lay of the land with a one-hour cruise on the Donegal Bay Waterbus that takes in the area’s main sights. A sunset stroll on the pier is a pleasant way to see out the day and enjoy the evening songbird serenade.
Another great base for your stay is Letterkenny, the largest town in Donegal and some 50km north of Donegal town. It has lots to offer regarding food, drink, and accommodation, a lively nightlife scene, and plenty of things to see and do, including museums, historical buildings, and parks. It is an ideal place to stay if you want to explore Glenveagh National Park and northern Donegal.
Ever wanted to know how glass jewellery is made or how a loom or letterpress works? Well, just a few kilometres outside of Donegal town is a creative hub brimming with talent where you can meet the artists and learn about their skills. The Donegal Craft Village is a collection of art and craft studios gathered around a pretty courtyard, home to a community of independent handcrafters. Watch them work, browse their studios and treat yourself to exquisite handmade creations.
You can also treat yourself to divine cakes, snacks, and hearty lunches at the Aroma coffee shop. The village is very peaceful, and watching the makers work is hypnotic. You could spend hours here just observing, chatting, browsing, and eating—and I think you should.
Dominating Donegal town is the striking 15th-century castle, which has been lovingly restored and looks splendid standing on the banks of the River Eske. Red Hugh O’Donnell built Donegal Castle. Do you remember him from school? If not, don’t worry; a one-hour tour of the castle will refresh your memory, and you’ll learn all about the O’Donnell chieftains, Red Hugh’s secret escape and the construction and restoration of the castle. The tour is enjoyable, and children will love being inside a restored castle and exploring the ruins.
If roaming the ruins has worked up an appetite, you are in luck because directly across from Donegal Castle is The Olde Castle Bar & Red Hugh’s Restaurant. We don’t think Red Hugh actually ate here, but don’t let that get in the way of a terrific meal.
The Olde Castle Bar & Red Hugh’s Restaurant is in a beautiful stone building and continues the castle theme with its flagged floors, big wooden tables, lanterns and arched walls. It also happens to be one of the best seafood restaurants in Donegal – its seafood platter is lip-smackingly good. But don’t worry, there are plenty of meat dishes and vegetarian options on the menu. As for dessert, the whole menu is mouthwatering, but the cheesecake with hot chocolate sauce is sublime. Bon appétit!
Towering over the Atlantic coast, wild and rugged, the cliffs at Sliabh League are some of the highest sea cliffs in Europe. How high? Twice as high as the Eiffel Tower and three times higher than the Cliffs of Moher in County Clare. At the highest point, the cliffs crash 601 metres down into the waves below.
Considering the cliffs look and feel like the edge of the world, they are very accessible. The Sliabh League cliffs are just outside Teelin in Donegal Bay, an hour-and-a-half drive from Donegal Town. Located 4km from the cliffs is the Sliabh League Visitor Centre, where you can stop off, pick up some literature about the area, use the toilet facilities and enjoy a coffee and snack in the cafe or at the picnic tables.
You then walk, cycle, or drive less than 2km up the road to the main car park. From here, it is a 20-minute walk up to the viewing platform. However, the scenery is magnificent, and there are loads of things to look at, so make sure you allow plenty of time to take in all the sights.
For those not able for the walk—it’s a wee bit steep, but kids seem to bound up—you can drive up through the sheep gate (make sure you close it behind you) and try to find a parking spot along the edge of the road nearer to the top. However, on busy days, parking can be a tight squeeze.
From the viewing point, the cliffs splay out before you in all their beguiling beauty. Dark rocks blanketed with emerald green moss punctuated with purple wildflowers slope into the frigid water below. Waves crash, and seabirds chatter. It is a feast for the senses and even more dramatic when covered in fog. If it is a clear day from the viewing platform, look behind you, and you will get a wonderful view of Ben Bulben.
Continue walking up the mountain along the stone pathway; in 20 minutes, you’ll be in the wilderness. You can keep following the cliffs up to the highest point, but this should only be done by experienced hikers with the proper kit as you have to tackle the infamous One Man’s Pass, and it is not for the faint-hearted or those with a fear of heights. Although there is a longer, alternative path that you can take, again, you should have the proper gear and shouldn’t attempt this in bad weather.
If you fancy seeing Sliabh League from below, you can take boat trips around the cliffs from nearby Teelin on the Nuala Star.
Top tip – Satisfy a rumbling tummy with a lobster roll from the cute lobster shack at the viewing platform.
A secluded bay with a golden soft-sand beach lapped by gentle waves and surrounded by imposing cliffs sounds like something from the Caribbean. Although it looks like a pirate’s paradise, Silver Stand Beach is, in fact, located at Malin Beg (Malainn Bhig) in south-west Donegal.
The bay becomes visible when you reach Discovery Point at Silver Strand Beach, and the fact that you reach it by descending 174 steep-sloping steps adds to its exclusive and elusive feel.
As your bare feet sink into the soft sand and the gentle waves tickle your toes, you’ll be struck by the dramatic setting as the hills really do seem to tumble down onto the beach. Donegal does go all out with its scenery. Nothing here is done by half. Even the soundtrack is uniquely Donegal, as the relaxing murmur of the water is accompanied by the bright bleeping of the sheep high in the hills.
The cliffs protect the horse-shoe-shaped bay from the wind and create a sun trap. So, even when the weather isn’t great – expect the four seasons in one day in Donegal – the beach is still a stunning spot for a stroll, swim or snorkel. There is no lifeguard here, but the sheltered nature of the bay means the water is typically calm.
Top tip – Come here outside of July and August, and there is a good chance you’ll have this beautiful beach all to yourself.
If you can’t make it to Silver Stand Beach, don’t worry; there are still plenty of blissful beaches along the Donegal coast. Fintragh Bay is one such beach. It is located just 4km from Killybegs Harbour and is easily accessible by car or taxi, or you can walk to it in around 45 minutes.
The steep (30 per cent incline) road down to the beach gives beautiful views of the 1km-long sandy beach, Donegal Bay, and, on a clear day, Benbulben, too.
The beach is sheltered with extensive dunes behind it. It has Blue Flag status for 2020, and during the bathing season, a lifeguard is on duty, making this a delightful beach for a family day out.
The queues outside the Killybegs Seafood Shack at the harbour hint at just how good the food is here. The freshly caught seafood is cooked right before you on the roadside. Then, you can settle down on the pier wall with all the other diners and tuck right in, enjoying your takeaway with a side order of views.
Top tip – If you know when you’ll be in Killybegs, call ahead or place your order online to avoid queueing.
Did you know there is a rainforest in Ireland? As if Donegal didn’t offer enough unique experiences, the Inishowen Peninsula is a Celtic rainforest. Wild Ireland, a wildlife sanctuary that focuses on animals once native to Ireland, is located here.
Not only will you see majestic old Irish goats, playful otters, mischievous monkeys, and other animals, but you’ll also encounter lynx, wolves, and bears. Oh my! Most animals have been rescued from circuses, roadside zoos, the illegal pet trade and laboratories, and Wild Ireland has tried to recreate their natural habitat so they can live as much as possible as they would in the wild.
There is a wonderful variety of animals, including birds, waterfowl, and fish. If you time it right, you can discover more and see the animals being fed during the keeper talks. Wait until you see the brown bears swimming for their supper.
Wild Ireland aims to educate visitors about the plight of animals in the wild and inspire future conservationists. It does so in a fun and fascinating way for all the family. Also on-site, there are toilets, picnic areas, a small play park, a gift shop, and a large car park.
For me, Donegal can sometimes feel like another world, but it is a truly authentic taste of Ireland. Its rugged beauty, preserved traditions, and wild landscapes excite and delight. Its deserted roads and beaches make it an ideal destination for a holiday away from the crowds or for those looking to get off the beaten track.
Here is my blog post on the best things to do in Waterford, my Waterford Travel Guide, and my recommendations for things to do in Lough Derg and Wicklow.
If you are visiting Ireland, look at my many blog posts, such as “Things to Do in Ireland,” “Things to Do in Kilkenny,” and my West Cork Travel Guide.
Furthermore, if you are looking for a place to stay in Ireland, I highly recommend Glenlo Abbey, Cork International Hotel, and Longueville House.
Also, I’ve written a review of the Culloden Estate and Spa if you’re looking for a place to stay in Northern Ireland.
Additionally, click here to learn about the traditional Irish foods we use to celebrate St Patrick’s Day.
I also have a post about Christmas dinner in Ireland.
Finally, click here to learn about Easter in Ireland: Traditions, food, and festivities.
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